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byob, parking avai
By JOE GRAY, Tribune staff reporter
Chicago Tribune, Wednesday, February 11, 2004

First impressions | Trucked behind the main drag of Wrigleyville, the tiny brick building almost goes unnoticed, until a peek inside reveals hundreds and hundreds of tin toys - steamboats, cars, animals, trains, trucks - marching across shallow shelves along the bright orange-golden walls. The funkiness continues with tables decorated with mosaics and held up by vintage sewing machine legs, restroom walls covered with more toys and, watching over it all, a life-size Elvis statue (which stands outside to beckon diners in during better weather). Chef-owner Tee Meunpresittiveg decorated this five-month-old spot with toys he started collecting as a child in Thailand.

On the plate | All the Thai favorites are here in a multi-page menu that's more like a booklet, complete with retro illustrations and plenty of descriptions for those unfamiliar with the food. Serving are generous and invitingly plated. The noodle and curry dishes we tried would serve two.

At your service | Servers were attentive, prompt and friendly. The kitchen was quick too. The four appetizers we ordered arrived together and piping hot. As the place filled later, the kitchen still kept up. One quibble: We had to ask for dinner plates, only to be given the small appetizer size - even though we were sharing four entrees among three people.

Second helping | The pad woonsen featured delicate stir-fired glass noodles with a mealange of flavors from shrimp, chicken, onion, carrots, bean sprouts, egg and peas. Lard na had perfectly crispy wide noodles and thick, flavorful sauce. The green curry was hot, crunchy creaminess. Among appetizers, the deep-fried shrimp rolls - with their crispy rice paper wrapper and tasty filling - were our favorite. The tom kar coconut soup was warming with its spicy heat.

Take a pass | The spicy shrimp arrived with perfectly stir-fried crustaceans but drowning in a gelatinous sauce that tasted ketchup-like. The shu mai steamed shrimp dumpling-were unremarkable.

Thirst quenchers | Along with the standard - Thai iced coffee and tea and sodas - drinks include "freezes" made with ice and pineapple, melon or litchi. A "kiddies cocktail" combines lemon-lime soda and cherry syrup with a cherry on top. Adults can BYOB.

Extras | Free parking-a premium in this congested neighborhood-is available for six or seven cars. Price range Appetizers, $2.95-$4.95; soups, $2.95;salads, $1.50-$5.50; main dishes, $5.50-$7.95;beverages, $1-$2.95.

 
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